Renewal Pruning
By Tom Evans
March 2010
Deciduous trees and shrubs (those that lose their leaves for winter) aren't usually grabbing much attention at this time of year. However, their bare bones make this a great time to assess their branching structure to plan for spring improvement and renewal with proper pruning. In this instance, timing is more important than technique. After the snows have melted but before the temperatures start warming, the technique of renewal pruning becomes an option for some plants. It is used to give overgrown, tired-looking shrubs a new lease on life when they are getting along in years. If done later, there is less of a response to renewal pruning. To use renewal pruning, remove the woody branches back to main stems or trunk of the plant. Then the plants will respond to this with a flush of new growth that can revive the older, overgrown and misshapen shrubs. Renewal pruning often results in abundant new growth by midsummer. Once the new shoots are 6 to 12 inches long, prune the tips to encourage lateral branching and a more compact shrub. Some plants will recover more slowly, and may not bloom or bloom less for a year or two. Sometimes the need for renewal for overall plant health outweighs missing the flower show for one spring. Not all plants are good candidates for this type of pruning. Some that are good choices are Hollies, azaleas, butterfly bushes, spirea, Abelia, Caryopteris, lilacs, amur maple, Barberry, cotoneaster, honeysuckle, viburnum, weigela, nandina, clethera, and privets. Boxwoods, junipers, spruces, pines, cypress, cedar, arborvitae, yews and other narrow-leaf evergreens do not respond when severely pruned and may decline. Transplanting, instead of pruning, may be better for these plants when they overgrow a site. |
|